The Ultimate Gecko Shopping List: Everything You Need for a New Pet

Bringing home a new gecko is thrilling, but the sheer amount of required gear can feel overwhelming and confusing. You worry about buying the wrong things, forgetting something critical, or blowing your budget on unnecessary gadgets.

I’ve been there with my own crew-Griffey, Jeter, and the rest-and I’m here to help you get it right the first time. This guide will break down exactly what you need, saving you time, money, and stress.

You will walk away with a clear understanding of:

• Which items are non-negotiable for your gecko’s health and safety.
• How to make smart, budget-friendly choices without sacrificing quality.
• A definitive checklist sourced from years of personal experience and expert care.

You will get straightforward, no-fluff advice for setting up the perfect habitat. We are covering the essentials, from housing and heating to diet and decor: enclosure, heating, lighting, substrate, hides, decor, water and food dishes, supplements, food, maintenance tools.

Choosing the Right Gecko Enclosure: Size and Type Matters

Getting the enclosure right is your first and most important step. A proper home sets your gecko up for a long, healthy, and happy life. I learned this the hard way when my first gecko, Griffey, outgrew his starter tank in under a year. Gecko housing requirements and tank size vary by species, so matching the setup to your gecko is key. Understanding these details early helps you choose the right enclosure and avoid repeat mistakes.

Glass Tanks vs. Other Enclosures

You have a few main options, and the best choice often depends on your gecko species.

• Glass Terrariums: These are the classic choice. They provide great visibility and hold heat well. A front-opening door is a game-changer for easy access and less stress on your pet. My crested gecko, Jeter, lives in one and loves the vertical space for climbing.
• PVC Enclosures: These are becoming hugely popular. They are lighter than glass, better at holding heat and humidity, and look very sleek. They are a fantastic, modern option for most geckos.
• Plastic Bins (for Quarantine): While not a permanent home, a sterilite bin is my go-to for a temporary quarantine tank. It’s cheap, easy to clean, and perfect for monitoring a new gecko’s health for the first 30-45 days.

Always prioritize floor space for terrestrial geckos and height for arboreal climbers. A 20-gallon long tank is the absolute minimum for one adult leopard gecko, but bigger is always better.

Essential Enclosure Accessories

An empty tank is a stressful tank. Geckos need clutter to feel secure. Here is your non-negotiable shopping list for the inside of the habitat.

• Substrate: For beginners, I always recommend simple paper towel or slate tile. They are safe, easy to clean, and eliminate any risk of impaction. Loose substrates can be used later with more experience.
• Hides: You need at least two-one for the warm side and one for the cool side. A humid hide stuffed with damp sphagnum moss is also essential for proper shedding.
• Climbing Décor: Branches, vines, and cork bark rounds are not just decoration. My gargoyle gecko, Mookie, would be lost without his jungle gym of branches to leap between.
• Food and Water Dishes: Use shallow, sturdy dishes that are easy to clean. A heavy ceramic water dish won’t tip over when your gecko decides to take a stroll through it.

Creating a cluttered environment mimics their natural habitat and gives them the confidence to explore. My fat-tailed gecko, A-Rod, rearranges his hides nightly, making the space his own.

Heating and Lighting: Creating a Cozy Habitat

Geckos are ectotherms; they rely on their environment to regulate their body temperature. Proper heating is not a luxury-it is the cornerstone of their digestion, immune system, and overall activity level.

Heat Sources: Lamps and Pads

You have two primary methods to provide warmth. I use a combination for most of my geckos.

• Overhead Heating Lamps: A halogen heat bulb or a Deep Heat Projector in a ceramic lamp fixture is my preferred method. It provides a more natural, penetrating heat that mimics the sun.
• Under Tank Heat Pads (UTH): These stick to the bottom of the tank and create a warm spot. They are useful, but must be used with a thermostat. They only provide surface-level heat, not ambient air warmth.

You must, must, MUST use a thermostat with any heat source you choose. An unregulated heat mat can easily reach temperatures that will severely burn your gecko. It is the most critical piece of safety equipment you will buy.

Lighting and UVB Needs

This is where care has evolved. While some geckos are considered “crepuscular,” we now know many benefit from low-level UVB lighting. To address this, a species-specific UVB breakdown outlines each gecko’s UVB needs. It guides bulb selection, placement, and photoperiod for different pet gecko species.

• UVB Lighting: A low-output, linear UVB bulb (like a ShadeDweller or a 5.0 T5 bulb) can be beneficial for leopard geckos and fat-tailed geckos. It helps them synthesize vitamin D3, which is vital for calcium absorption and strong bones.
• Day/Night Cycle: Use a simple timer for your lights. Provide 10-12 hours of light during the day and complete darkness at night. This consistent cycle is vital for their mental well-being.
• No Night Lights: Never use red, blue, or colored bulbs at night. Geckos can see this light, and it disrupts their sleep cycle. For 24/7 heat, use a ceramic heat emitter that produces no light.

Seeing my giant day gecko, Babe, bask under his UVB light is a joy; he truly looks like he’s soaking up the sun on a warm rock. Providing this simple luxury makes a visible difference in their vitality.

Decor and Hides: Building a Gecko Paradise

Creating the right environment is more than just aesthetics; it’s about your gecko’s mental and physical health. A cluttered, enriching tank is a happy, stress-free tank, and I’ve seen this firsthand with my own crew.

Substrate Choices and Safety

The floor of your gecko’s home is one of the most critical choices you’ll make. The wrong one can lead to serious health issues. I always recommend starting new geckos on simple paper towel for the first few months—it’s safe, cheap, and lets you easily monitor their health. A proper habitat setup—substrate choice, humidity, temperature, and hiding spots—helps prevent common gecko illnesses. Keeping the enclosure clean and well-maintained also reduces disease risk.

Once your gecko is settled, you can consider these safe, long-term options:

• Slate or Ceramic Tile: My personal favorite for my leopard gecko, Griffey. It holds heat beautifully, is easy to clean, and there’s zero risk of impaction.
• Bioactive Soil Mixes: A fantastic, natural option for humid species like crested geckos. My Jeter’s tank uses one, and the live plants thrive in it.
• Reptile Carpet: It’s reusable, but you must clean it frequently to prevent bacteria growth. I find it can snag tiny gecko claws.

You must avoid loose, particulate substrates for most beginner species. Sand, calcium sand, mulch, or crushed walnut shell can cause fatal impaction if ingested during feeding. I learned this the hard way early on, and it’s a mistake I don’t want you to make.

Hides and Climbing Structures

Geckos are prey animals that need to feel secure. Hides are non-negotiable, not decorations. My rule is a minimum of three hides: one on the warm side, one on the cool side, and a humid hide in the middle for shedding. You can learn more about the different types of hides and when to use them on The Gecko Guide.

You have plenty of great options:

• Commercial Hides: Simple reptile caves, cork rounds, and coconut huts work perfectly. My A-Rod, the fat-tailed gecko, is very particular and loves his solid, dark cave.
• DIY Hides: Get creative! Clean, smooth-sided plastic containers with an entry hole cut out make excellent humid hides. Terracotta plant pots laid on their side work great, too.

For your climbers-crested, gargoyle, and day geckos-vertical space is everything. My Mookie and Babe would be miserable without a jungle gym of branches, vines, and ledges to explore.

• Branches & Vines: Use sterilized driftwood, ghost wood, or fluker’s vines. Ensure they are sturdy enough to support your gecko’s weight.
• Magnetic Ledges & Plants: These are game-changers for arboreal tanks. They provide climbing surfaces and hiding spots up high, where these geckos feel safest.
• Foliage: Silk or live plants add cover and make the tank feel more natural. My day gecko, Babe, loves to nap nestled in a broad-leafed plant.

Feeding Supplies: Nutrition for a Healthy Gecko

Getting the food right is the single most important thing you can do for your gecko’s long-term health. I’ve seen firsthand how a proper diet can transform a lethargic gecko into a vibrant, active pet like my high-yellow leopard gecko, Griffey. This isn’t just about buying bugs; it’s about creating a complete nutritional system.

Live Insect Options and Care

Your gecko is an insectivore, which means a bag of dried crickets just won’t cut it. They need the movement and nutrition of live prey. Variety is absolutely crucial here to prevent nutritional deficiencies and keep your gecko interested in mealtime. A diversifying diet guide with 10 safe feeder insects for geckos can help you plan balanced rotations. It shows safe prey options and feeding rhythms to keep nutrition on track. I rotate between these staples for my crew:

• Dubia Roaches: My top choice. They are meatier, less smelly than crickets, and can’t climb smooth surfaces, making escapes rare. A-Rod, my fat-tailed gecko, goes wild for them.
• Crickets: A classic, but they are noisy, smelly, and die easily. If you use them, buy in small quantities and be prepared for the “chirping.”
• Black Soldier Fly Larvae (Calciworms/Phoenix Worms): A fantastic, high-calcium option. I use these as a regular part of the rotation to naturally boost calcium intake.
• Mealworms and Superworms: These are like gecko junk food-high in fat and addictive. I treat these as occasional snacks, not a staple, especially for my chunkier geckos like Babe.

You cannot just feed the insects to your gecko. You must feed the insects first. This process is called “gut-loading.” This step is part of properly caring for and feeding mealworms to your gecko. Gut-loading helps ensure your gecko gets the nutrients it needs.

1. Keep your feeder insects in a separate, ventilated container.
2. 24-48 hours before feeding, provide them with nutritious foods like carrots, sweet potato, or commercial gut-load diets.
3. This stuffs the insect with vitamins that then get passed directly to your gecko. It’s a non-negotiable step.

Supplements and Feeding Tools

Even the best-fed insects are not a complete diet on their own. Without proper supplementation, geckos can develop Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD), a painful and crippling condition I’ve helped rescue geckos from. You need two main powders.

• Calcium with Vitamin D3: This is your everyday dusting powder. D3 helps them absorb the calcium. Lightly coat every insect feeding.
• Multivitamin: This provides all the other essential vitamins and minerals. I use this once or twice a week instead of the calcium.

Some keepers also offer a plain calcium powder (without D3) in a small dish inside the enclosure, allowing the gecko to self-regulate. My crested gecko, Jeter, uses his frequently.

The right tools make feeding time safe and mess-free.

• Feeding Tongs: Use soft-tipped tweezers to offer insects. This prevents accidental nips on your fingers and teaches your gecko to target food.
• Escape-Proof Food Dishes: Shallow, smooth-sided dishes are a must for mealworms and to hold your powdered supplements during “dusting.”
• Feeding Ledges (for Crested/Gargoyle Geckos): These magnetic ledges hold little cups for a fruit-based Crested Gecko Diet (CGD), which is the main diet for species like Jeter and Mookie.

Health and Maintenance: Keeping Your Gecko Thriving

Monitoring Humidity and Temperature

Getting the environment right is not just a suggestion-it’s the absolute foundation of your gecko’s health. I learned this the hard way when my crested gecko, Jeter, had a bad shed because my humidity was off by just 10%. Your gecko relies on you to recreate a slice of its natural habitat.

You need to know the numbers, not guess them. Relying on the tiny, unreliable analog gauges that sometimes come with terrarium kits is a recipe for trouble.

• Digital Hygrometer/Thermometer Combo: This is your command center. You need one for the warm side and one for the cool side of the enclosure.
• Laser Temperature Gun: This is my secret weapon for spot-checking surface temperatures. It tells me if Babe’s basking spot is truly at 90°F or if it’s just the air around it that’s warm.

Creating a temperature gradient is non-negotiable. Your gecko is not a machine; it’s a living creature that needs to thermoregulate. To create a perfect temperature gradient in the gecko enclosure temperature gradient, arrange a warm basking area on one side and a cooler, shaded area on the other, with a gradual temperature change across the space. Regularly check temps with thermometers to keep each zone within the ideal range.

• Warm Side: 85-90°F for Leopard and Fat-Tailed geckos. 72-80°F for Crested and Gargoyle geckos.
• Cool Side: 70-75°F for all species. This is their escape from the heat.
• Nighttime Drop: A slight drop is natural and beneficial, but it should not go below 65°F.

Humidity needs are a game of species-specific precision. Misting is not just about spraying water; it’s about timing and observation. My Giant Day Gecko, Babe, needs a daily misting, while my Leopard Gecko, Griffey, only needs a humid hide.

• Crested/Gargoyle Geckos: Aim for 60-80% humidity, spiking during mistings.
• Leopard/Fat-Tailed Geckos: Much drier, at 30-40%. A humid hide is their personal spa.
• Handheld Pressure Sprayer: Far superior to a cheap spray bottle. It creates a fine, rain-like mist that encourages drinking and helps with shedding.

Cleaning and Sanitation

A clean home is a healthy home, and for a gecko, a dirty tank can quickly lead to illness. I treat my geckos’ enclosures like my own kitchen-I would never let old food or waste sit around. Establishing a simple routine prevents big problems later.

You need a dedicated cleaning kit. Do not use the same sponges or sprays you use for your own home, as chemical residues are extremely dangerous.

• Veterinary-Grade Disinfectant: Look for brands like F10SC or Chlorhexidine. They are effective against germs but safe for reptiles after proper rinsing.
• Designated Sponges/Cloths: A set used only for your gecko’s habitat.
• Poop Scoop: A simple plastic spoon or spatula works perfectly for spot-cleaning.
• Spare Enclosure: A small, temporary tub is invaluable for safely housing your gecko during deep cleans.

Your cleaning schedule should be a mix of daily, weekly, and monthly tasks. This keeps the workload manageable and your pet safe.

Daily (Takes 2 Minutes):

1. Remove any leftover live insects.
2. Spot-clean feces and urates with your scoop.
3. Wipe down glass doors or front panels with water.

Weekly (Takes 15 Minutes):

1. Remove and wash food/water dishes with reptile-safe disinfectant.
2. Check and replace soiled substrate in high-traffic areas.
3. Wipe down decorations and glass.

Monthly (The Deep Clean):

1. Move your gecko to its temporary tub.
2. Remove all items and substrate from the enclosure.
3. Scrub the entire empty tank with your veterinary disinfectant.
4. Rinse everything thoroughly with water-no chemical residue left behind!
5. Let the tank air dry completely before adding fresh substrate and decor.

This monthly reset is your best defense against mold, bacteria, and mites, ensuring your scaly friend has a pristine environment for years to come.

Budget and Shopping Tips: Smart Buys for Your Pet

Getting a new gecko is exciting, but the cost of supplies can add up fast. I learned this the hard way with my first gecko, Griffey, when I bought a fancy, expensive hide he completely ignored in favor of a simple, cheap one. It’s not just the upfront price. Ongoing monthly expenses, such as substrate, electricity, feeders, and vet care, matter too. For more information on how to manage these costs, check out the guide on ongoing monthly expenses. Let’s talk about how to spend your money wisely so your gecko gets everything they need without breaking the bank.

Where to Find Quality Supplies

You don’t need to buy everything from a single high-priced pet store. I mix and match from several sources to get the best value and quality for my crew.

• Local Reptile Shops: These are my go-to for crucial items like thermostats and feeders. The staff are usually experienced keepers who can offer priceless, specific advice.
• Big-Box Pet Stores: Great for basics like spray bottles, feeding dishes, and some decor. Always check for online coupons and sales before you go.
• Online Retailers: Sites like Chewy or specialized reptile shops often have the best prices for bulky items like substrate bags or larger terrariums.
• Secondhand Finds: Facebook Marketplace and reptile forums are goldmines for gently used terrariums and equipment. Just be sure to disinfect everything with a vet-approved cleaner like F10SC before use.

Prioritizing Your Purchases

If your budget is tight, focus on what your gecko needs to survive and thrive immediately. The fancy vines and background scenery can wait.

Here is how I break down the spending for a new gecko setup, from absolute must-haves to items you can add later.

Priority Level	Items	My Personal Tip
Essential (Buy First)	Properly sized enclosure Heat source & thermostat Digital thermometer/hygrometer Secure lid (for arboreal species) At least two basic hides Water dish & initial food	Never, ever skip the thermostat. It’s a non-negotiable safety device that prevents tragic burns.
Secondary (Buy Next)	UVB light (for day geckos & other species that benefit) Supplement powders (Calcium with D3, multivitamin) More decor/climbing branches Spare bulbs or heat mat	My crested gecko, Jeter, was much happier once I added a magnetic feeding ledge. It’s a small upgrade with a big impact.
Tertiary (Add Over Time)	Automatic misting system Bioactive substrate kit Decorative background Backup enclosure for quarantine	A bioactive setup is a fantastic long-term goal, but it’s a project that requires research and a larger initial investment.

Remember, a simple, well-set-up enclosure is always better than a cluttered, improperly heated one. Your gecko cares more about correct temperatures and security than the color of their fake plants. Spend your money on the fundamentals first, and build from there.

Common Questions

How often should I handle my new gecko?

You should wait at least one to two weeks after bringing your gecko home to allow it to settle into its new environment before attempting any handling. For the first 24 hours, follow our essential step-by-step guide to ensure proper setup and gentle acclimation. This guide covers enclosure setup, heat, humidity, and observation to help your gecko settle in calmly.

What is the average lifespan of a pet gecko?

With proper care, many common pet geckos like leopard geckos and crested geckos can live for 15 to 20 years or more. Longevity, however, differs by species. A quick lifespan comparison shows some geckos live longer than others.

Do I need to find a veterinarian for my gecko?

Yes, you should locate an exotic veterinarian experienced with reptiles before any health issues arise for routine check-ups and emergencies.

Final Checklist for Your New Gecko

Getting the right setup from day one is the single biggest factor in your gecko’s long-term health and happiness. Focus on the absolute essentials first: a secure and correctly sized terrarium, a reliable heat source, precise thermometers, proper substrate, and a minimum of two hides. Everything else, while beneficial, can be added as you and your new pet settle in together.

Owning a gecko is a wonderful, long-term commitment that rewards your dedication with a unique and fascinating pet. Your learning journey doesn’t end once the tank is set up; continue to observe your gecko’s behavior and research their specific needs. The team at Gecko Pet Care is always here to help you provide the best life for your scaly friend.

Further Reading & Sources

• Crested Gecko Shopping List | Starter Kits for Beginners
• Crested Gecko Ultimate Shopping List – Zen Habitats
• Crested Gecko Shopping List | Wiki | Reptiles Amino