The Ultimate Gecko Health Troubleshooting Checklist

Is your gecko acting off, and you’re worried you’re missing a critical sign of illness? That pit-in-your-stomach feeling is something I know all too well from my years with my own crew of scaly friends.

I’m here to help you move from panic to a plan. This guide will walk you through a simple, step-by-step process to figure out what’s wrong. You will learn how to:

• Perform a head-to-tail physical inspection from a safe distance.
• Systematically audit your gecko’s habitat for hidden stressors.
• Decode subtle changes in behavior that are easy to miss.

By the end, you’ll have a clear path forward. We cover: initial assessment, habitat check, eating/drinking problems, shedding issues, and serious symptoms.

Spot the Signs: Common Gecko Health Symptoms

Behavioral Red Flags

Your gecko can’t tell you they feel sick, but their actions speak volumes. I learned this when my normally curious leopard gecko, Griffey, started hiding all day. Any sudden shift in your gecko’s normal routine is your first and most important clue that something is wrong, such as changes in behavior or activity levels. Understanding what behaviors are normal for your gecko is crucial.

• Lethargy: A gecko that stops exploring, especially during their active hours, is signaling a problem. This could point to low temperatures, a respiratory infection, or general illness.
• Excessive Hiding: While hiding is normal, never seeing your pet is not. This is often a sign of stress from an incorrect setup or feeling exposed without enough hides.
• Loss of Appetite: Refusing food for more than a few days is a major red flag. This is common with impaction, parasitic infections, or simply a habitat that is too cold for proper digestion.
• Unusual Aggression: A typically calm gecko that starts hissing or biting is scared or in pain. My crested gecko, Jeter, only ever did this when he was struggling with a bad shed.

Physical Warning Signals

Catching physical issues early can stop a small problem from becoming a crisis. I do a quick visual check of all my geckos every evening when I feed them. Make a habit of looking your gecko over from nose to tail-tip during handling sessions.

• Weight Loss: A skinny gecko with a thin tail or visible hip bones is a gecko in trouble. This is a classic sign of parasites or malnutrition.
• Stuck Shed: Any leftover skin, especially on toes or the tip of the tail, can cut off circulation and lead to loss of that body part. This screams that your humidity levels are off.
• Swollen Joints or Limbs: Swelling can indicate a serious injury, a metabolic bone disease from lack of calcium, or even a nasty infection.
• Discharge: Bubbles or mucus around the nose or mouth, or crusty eyes, are tell-tale signs of a respiratory infection that needs a vet’s attention fast.

Start Here: Is Your Gecko’s Home Making Them Sick?

Temperature and Humidity Check

If your gecko is acting off, the enclosure environment is the very first thing you must rule out. I learned this the hard way when my fat-tailed gecko, A-Rod, got sluggish because his heat mat failed. Guessing with temperatures is a surefire way to compromise your gecko’s immune system and digestion.

1. Get two digital thermometers: place one on the warm end and one on the cool end of the tank.
2. Use a digital hygrometer to measure humidity. Place it in the middle of the enclosure.
3. Verify you have a proper heat gradient. The warm side should be species-specific (e.g., 88-90°F for leopard geckos), and the cool side should be about 10-15 degrees cooler.
4. Check humidity against your species’ needs. Crested geckos need 50-70%, while leopard geckos thrive at 30-40%.

Lighting and Substrate Inspection

What you put in the tank is as important as the temperature. I once used a substrate that was too dusty for my gargoyle gecko, Mookie, and it irritated his eyes. The wrong lighting or flooring can slowly poison your pet or lead to life-threatening blockages.

• UVB Lighting: While not all geckos require it, providing low-level UVB for species like day geckos helps them metabolize calcium properly and can prevent metabolic bone disease.
• Safe Substrate: Paper towel, slate tile, or reptile carpet are the safest choices for most terrestrial geckos. They eliminate the risk of impaction.
• Loose Substrate Risks: Loose substrates like sand, mulch, or coconut fiber can be accidentally ingested during feeding. This can cause a fatal gut impaction, where the digestive tract gets blocked.

Rule Out Parasites and Infections

Signs of Internal Parasites

Finding a weird-looking poop in your gecko’s tank can send any owner into a panic. I’ve been there, staring at a strangely runny or off-color dropping from my leopard gecko, Griffey, and immediately getting that sinking feeling. Your first clue is often right there in the waste. Look for stool that is consistently runny, unusually green, or contains blood or mucus. You might even see tiny, moving specks-those are a major red flag.

Other behavioral signs pair with these stool changes. Your gecko might become lethargic, lose weight despite eating, or seem generally unthrifty. Trust your gut; if your gecko just seems “off,” it’s worth paying close attention to their bathroom habits.

• Unusual stool color (green, yellow, bloody)
• Watery or mucus-covered consistency
• Visible worms or moving particles in fresh stool
• Unexplained weight loss or lethargy
• A bloated or distended belly

Seeing one of these signs doesn’t automatically mean parasites, but it does mean you should act. The only way to get a real diagnosis is through a professional fecal exam performed by an exotic vet. I always collect a fresh sample (less than 12 hours old) in a clean baggie and take it in. It’s a simple, non-invasive test that gives you definitive answers and peace of mind.

Spotting Mouth Rot and Respiratory Disease

These two conditions are often linked directly to problems in your gecko’s habitat. Let’s start with mouth rot, or infectious stomatitis. I learned about this the hard way with my fat-tailed gecko, A-Rod, after I let his humidity creep too high. You need to gently check your gecko’s mouth regularly. Look for a thick, cheese-like substance around the gumline or teeth, not just clear saliva. The gums may look red, swollen, or even bleed easily. A gecko with mouth rot might also rub its mouth on decor or suddenly refuse food. Good dental health is the first line of defense against mouth rot. Regular dental checks help you catch problems early and inform prevention through proper humidity and hygiene.

Respiratory infections are another common villain. Listen closely to your gecko’s breathing; you should hear nothing at all. If you hear clicking, wheezing, or popping sounds when they breathe, that’s a big problem. Other symptoms include bubbles or mucus around the nostrils, keeping the mouth open to breathe, and a general lack of energy. Understanding gecko breathing problems can help you identify and address these issues early.

• Mouth Rot Signs: Pussy, cottage-cheese-like material in mouth, swollen gums, loss of appetite.
• Respiratory Infection Signs: Audible breathing (wheezing, clicking), mucus around nose or mouth, lethargy, open-mouth breathing.

Both of these issues are frequently triggered by incorrect temperature and humidity levels. A tank that is too cold and damp is a perfect breeding ground for the bacteria that cause these illnesses. Double-check your thermostats and hygrometers to make sure your gecko’s home isn’t accidentally making them sick.

Review Diet and Nutrition Gaps

What your gecko eats is the absolute foundation of their health. I’ve seen more health issues resolved by fixing a diet than by any other single change in my years of keeping geckos. Let’s break down the two biggest areas where things go wrong. To help you avoid these pitfalls, we’ll cover 9 common gecko feeding mistakes that compromise health. Understanding these missteps will help you keep your gecko thriving.

Calcium and Vitamin D3 Balance

This is the most common nutritional pitfall for new owners. Without the right calcium and D3 balance, your gecko’s body will start pulling calcium from its own bones. It’s a quiet, sneaky problem until it becomes a crisis.

Watch for these early warning signs:

• Subtle tremors or twitching in the toes and tail
• A soft, flexible lower jaw (it should feel firm)
• Difficulty climbing or a general lethargy
• In severe cases, limbs may appear bent or broken

My big-league gecko, Babe, once had a slight jaw softness that scared me straight into perfecting my supplement routine. Here’s how to get it right. You must “gut-load” your feeder insects 24-48 hours before feeding. I feed my crickets and roaches a mix of high-calcium veggies like collard greens, sweet potato, and commercial gut-load food.

Your supplement schedule is non-negotiable:

• For most geckos: Lightly dust insects with a pure calcium supplement at every feeding.
• Add a calcium supplement with D3 to one feeding per week.
• Use a multivitamin supplement once every other week.

Hydration and Gut Health

Dehydration is a silent killer and a major cause of impaction. A dehydrated gecko is a gecko with digestive problems. My crested gecko, Jeter, taught me the importance of hydration; he prefers licking fresh droplets from leaves over a water bowl any day.

Ensure proper hydration with these methods:

• For tropical species like Cresteds and Day Geckos: Mist the enclosure heavily in the evening.
• For arid species like Leopard Geckos: Provide a shallow, sturdy water bowl with fresh water daily.
• Watch for a plump tail and clear, bright eyes-these are signs of a well-hydrated gecko.

Your gecko’s diet directly fuels their digestion and weight. Feeding insects that are too large is a classic mistake that can lead to regurge or a dangerous gut slowdown. A good rule is to never feed a prey item wider than the space between your gecko’s eyes. A healthy gecko should have a robust body and a nicely filled-out tail, but not be so round that its belly drags. My A-Rod is a stocky guy, but I watch his waistline carefully to keep him in peak condition.

Check for Physical Injuries and Stress

Body Inspection for Trauma

Finding an injury on your gecko can be scary, but a calm, methodical check is your first step to helping them. Always wash and dry your hands thoroughly before and after handling your gecko to prevent the spread of bacteria. Good hand washing hygiene is a cornerstone of responsible gecko care. It protects both you and your gecko during every handling session. I do this religiously with my crew, from my energetic leopard gecko Griffey to my calm crested gecko Jeter.

Step-by-Step Examination

1. Gently coax your gecko into an open palm. Never grab or restrain them by the tail.
2. Start at the head. Look for any swelling around the jaw or eyes. Check that both eyes are clear and open equally.
3. Move down the body. Run a gentle finger along the spine and ribs, feeling for any unusual bumps or dips.
4. Inspect all four limbs. Ensure each toe and nail is intact and that there is no redness or swelling at the joints.
5. Examine the tail closely. Look for signs of tail loss, which can appear as a dark, dry stump, or any bite marks or scratches.
6. Finally, check the belly for any retained shed, especially around the toes and vent area.

Injuries often point directly to a problem in their home. A common culprit for wounds or tail loss is an aggressive tank mate, which is why I house all of my geckos separately. Other hazards include sharp décor, unstable climbing branches, or an exposed heat source that can cause thermal burns.

Environmental Stressors

Geckos are masters of subtle communication, and stress signs are their way of asking for a change. Chronic stress weakens their immune system, making them far more susceptible to illness (source). My gecko A-Rod, for instance, would glass-surf constantly until I realized his hide was too exposed.

Common Stress Triggers & Fixes

• Inadequate Hides: Your gecko needs at least two hides-one on the warm side and a humid hide on the cool side. They should be snug and feel secure.
• Loud Noises & Vibrations: Place the tank in a low-traffic area away from speakers, TVs, and slamming doors.
• Improper Handling: Limit handling sessions to 10-15 minutes, and always let the gecko walk from hand to hand rather than being gripped.
• Incorrect Temperature Gradient: A tank that is too hot or too cold with no escape is a major stressor. Always verify your gradients with digital thermometers.
• Overly Bright Lights: Avoid colored lights and ensure there is a clear day/night cycle. I use timers for all my enclosures to keep things consistent.

If you notice signs like hiding all the time, refusing food, or frequent hissing, look at their environment first. Sometimes, the simplest fix, like adding more foliage for cover, can transform a stressed gecko into a calm, curious pet. Using calm, effective techniques and targeted environmental fixes can support ongoing stress management. A few small adjustments can make their world a much safer and happier place.

When to Call a Reptile Vet

Knowing when to shift from home care to professional help is a critical skill. My rule is simple: if a symptom would worry you in a mammal like a cat or dog, it’s an emergency for your gecko. Their small size means conditions can deteriorate with shocking speed.

Emergency Symptoms That Need Immediate Care

Do not wait to see if these resolve on their own. I’ve learned this the hard way with a gecko who stopped eating; what seemed minor was a serious impaction. Immediate action is required for:

• Visible bleeding from any orifice or a wound
• Seizures, tremors, or a complete loss of coordination
• A prolapse (where internal tissue protrudes from the vent or mouth)
• Gaping mouth or labored breathing, especially with bubbles or clicking sounds
• Sudden, dramatic lethargy or an inability to right themselves
• Swollen joints or limbs, which can indicate metabolic bone disease
• Trauma from a fall or a fight with a tank mate

Before you rush out the door, take two minutes to prepare. Grab your phone and take clear photos or a short video of the symptoms, as your gecko may not exhibit them in the stressful vet environment. Early warning signs of illness in geckos can be subtle, and catching them early makes vet visits more productive. Jot down a quick timeline: when you first noticed the problem, the last time they ate, and any recent changes to their enclosure. This information is pure gold for your vet.

What to Expect at the Vet

Walking into an exotic vet can feel intimidating, but a good reptile vet will make you and your scaly friend feel at ease. The goal is to be a team working for your gecko’s health. Knowing when to take your gecko to an exotic veterinarian can help you provide the best care for your pet.

The visit typically starts with a physical exam, checking everything from skin elasticity to mouth and eye health. Your vet will likely recommend a fecal test to check for internal parasites, a very common issue I’ve dealt with in my own colony. For more complex cases, they might suggest blood work to assess organ function or an X-ray to look for impactions or fractures.

Don’t be shy about asking questions. Why are they recommending a specific test? What are the potential treatment options? Building a long-term relationship with a vet who specializes in exotics is one of the best investments you can make in your pet’s welfare. They get to know your animal’s unique history, which leads to better, faster care over their lifetime.

Prevent Future Health Issues

Routine Care and Monitoring

Think of your weekly gecko check-up like a quick, friendly chat. It is your best tool for spotting tiny changes before they become big problems.

I weigh all my geckos every Sunday. My high yellow leopard gecko, Griffey, is so used to it he practically climbs onto the scale himself. This simple five-minute habit helped me catch a slight weight drop in my crested gecko, Jeter, which let me adjust his diet before any real issues started.

You only need two things for effective monitoring:

• A small digital kitchen scale that measures in grams.
• A simple notebook or a notes app on your phone.

Your weekly log should track these three things:

1. Weight: Record the number in grams. Any steady decline is a red flag.
2. Body Condition: Is their tail plump? Are their hips looking bony?
3. Habitat Temps & Humidity: A quick note confirms your equipment is working right.

This log becomes a powerful story of your gecko’s health. You will not regret the two minutes it takes to jot things down, but you might deeply regret skipping it.

Long-Term Wellness Tips

Great gecko care goes beyond just preventing sickness. It is about creating a life where your pet can truly thrive.

Enrichment is not a luxury; it is a necessity for an active mind. My gargoyle gecko, Mookie, would get bored just sitting on the same branch every day.

• Rotate safe terrarium decorations every few months.
• Offer food in different dishes or use feeding ledges.
• Create new climbing paths with safely secured branches.

A little change in their environment can stimulate natural behaviors and keep them engaged and curious.

Diet is another cornerstone of longevity. Do not get stuck in a food rut.

• For insect-eaters, offer a variety of gut-loaded feeders like dubia roaches, crickets, and black soldier fly larvae.
• For cresties and gargoyles on powdered diets, rotate between two or three reputable brands to ensure a full spectrum of nutrients.

My giant day gecko, Babe, has a famously chubby tail because his diet is varied and carefully portioned. A balanced diet builds a strong immune system for life.

My most non-negotiable rule, born from a hard lesson, is a strict quarantine for any new gecko. A new animal should be kept in a separate room, with entirely separate equipment, for a minimum of 60-90 days.

This is the ultimate act of animal welfare advocacy. Quarantining a new gecko protects your entire existing reptile family from potential parasites or illness. It is a quiet act of love for all the pets in your care. To put this into practice, follow a complete gecko quarantine protocol and a day-to-day safety checklist. This steady routine helps ensure ongoing protection for your geckos and the rest of your collection.

Common Questions

How long should I quarantine a new gecko?

You should quarantine any new gecko in a separate room with its own equipment for a minimum of 60 to 90 days.

Can I give my gecko too much calcium?

Yes, over-supplementing with calcium, especially versions containing D3, can lead to health issues, so it is crucial to follow a balanced dusting schedule.

How long is it normal for a gecko to refuse food?

While a gecko might skip a meal occasionally, refusing food for more than 3-5 days is a major red flag that warrants investigation.

How often should I handle my gecko?

You should limit handling sessions to short, calm periods of 10-15 minutes a few times a week, depending on your gecko’s temperament.

Is a water bowl necessary for all gecko species?

Most geckos need a shallow water bowl, but many arboreal species also require daily misting to drink droplets from leaves and maintain humidity.

Final Words

Your most powerful tool is consistent, careful observation of your gecko’s normal behavior and appearance. Use this checklist to systematically rule out environmental causes like temperature and humidity first, then move on to evaluating diet and physical symptoms. When in doubt, always consult a qualified reptile veterinarian.

Committing to a pet means committing to a lifetime of learning on their behalf. I’m always researching new care techniques for my own crew, and that dedication is what separates good owners from great ones. Your gecko’s health is a direct reflection of your care, so make their welfare your top priority.

Further Reading & Sources

• Leopard Gecko Care Sheet | PetMD
• Leopard Gecko Diseases, Illnesses & Other Health Info